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Hydro-Boost Manual Part 8Free PCV Jar information
Positive Crankcases Ventilation Jar There are ABSOLUTELY NO RESTRICTIONS on duplicating, publishing or
distributing the files on KeelyNet except where noted! Here is a device that you can build that will improve your gas mileage by at least 25%, and also keep your oil, engine and spark plugs cleaner, thus allowing your engine to have a much longer life. The device can be made for a total cost of about $12.00, and about two hours of labor. The device consists of a 1 quart jar, a small V8 fruit juice can or similar container, window screen, BBs', hoses, washers and clamps. The device is installed in between the PCV valve of your automobile engine and the vacuum source the PCV valve is normally connected to. The device condenses the oily vapors normally sucked into the combustion chamber as part of the pollution control systems, in a container of BBs', where the vapors condense around the BBs', and drain into the bottom of the jar. If you can find them, use glass beads the same size of the BBs'. I have been unable to find any, but I know that they are made. Blow by gases, containing gasoline vapors, are drawn back into the engine for burning. Combustion efficiency is improved as a result of the oily vapors collected in the jar, rather than contaminating the fuel/air charge in the combustion chamber. Obtain a 1 quart jar, preferably with a wide mouth. The wide mouth is necessary for the juice can containing the BBs' to fit in the jar. Being careful not to damage the sealing gasket of the jar lid, locate and cut a 1/2 inch hole in the very center of the jar lid. Locate and cut another 1/2 inch hole midway between the hole in the center of the lid and the outside edge of the jar lid. At this point, the jar lid has two, 1/2 inch holes cut in it. Try to keep the holes neat without any excess metal protruding above or below the lid surface. Obtain a length of 1/2 inch, all threaded pipe, and 6, 1/2" nuts. I use the pipe and nuts, that are used in lamps and lighting fixtures, and buy it at lamp shops. Some of this pipe has a seam in it, which you don't want. This device must be air tight, as engine vacuum is connected. Cut 1, 2-1/2 inch length and 1, 1-1/2 length. Cut the end with the pouring hole, out of the small V8 juice can. Wash out and dry the can. Cut a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the juice can. Using 1/2 inch nuts, and fender washers and silicone gasket sealer (you'll have to enlarge the holes in the washers to fit the 1/2 inch pipe), install the 2-1/2 inch length of pipe in the V8 juice can. Leave about two threads of the pipe, showing down inside the can. Use the fender washers on both side of the juice can to provide support. This can will be eventually filled with BBs', and the washers are necessary because of the weight. Take the 1-1/2 inch length of threaded pipe, 2 nuts and some silicone gasket sealer, and install in the hole of the jar lid, NOT the hole in the very center. Leave 2 or 3 threads of the pipe showing on the underside of the jar lid. Back to the juice can. Cut a piece of aluminum window screen to neatly fit the inside of the juice can, and push it down into the juice can, leaving no gaps for the BBs' to roll into the threaded pipe. Fill the can completely, with copper plated BBs'. Take another piece of aluminum window screen, and pull it over the end of the juice can, leaving about a 1/2 inch skirt of screen. Using a large worm gear type hose clamp, gently tighten the clamp, snugging the screen to the outside surface of the juice can. You have to be careful here. You want to tighten the clamp just enough where the juice can STARTS to deform. Install this can full of BBs' in the center hole of the jar lid, using washers and nuts. Leave about 1/2 inch of space between the top of the juice can and the other pipe installed in the jar lid, to allow the blow-by gasses to exit the jar. Install 1/2 inch elbow on both pipes protruding from the top of the jar lid. Install a 1-1/2 inch piece of pipe into each elbow. Obtain 1/2 automobile heater hose, and connect the jar to the engine as follows: From the center pipe of the jar lid, connect to the PCV valve. If the hose is too large, use a worm gear clamp to secure the hose. From the other pipe in the jar lid, connect a 1/2 inch section of heater hose to the vacuum source of the engine. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT ! ! If not, you will know what is meant by a vacuum leak. Now for the hardest part: You want to locate a spot in the engine compartment to mount a 1 pound coffee can, in which to hold the jar. Try to locate a place where the hoses can be kept as short as possible. Cut several holes in the bottom of the coffee can to let any water drain out that may get in the can after a hard rain or that you have driven through. Cut a couple of pieces of the hose to wedge between the coffee can and the jar, to keep it snug and not bouncing around. To make this assembly blend into the engine compartment, paint the jar lid, juice can and the coffee can, flat black. Consider using hoses the same color as the other engine compartment hoses. Depending on how far you drive, the jar will probably require emptying about once a month. Vehicles which are driven short distances and the engine never really gets up to maximum temperature, will require that the jar be emptied about once a week. The jar will contain mostly water, as a result of condensation that takes place in the oil pan. The liquid in the jar contains unburned hydrocarbons, water and sludge. The liquid is also mildly acidic, as a result of the water vapor and the unburned hydrocarbons, combining. Some people have noticed a slight burning sensation, if the liquid gets on the skin. About every 30,000 miles or so, wash out the BBs' with varsol or other solvent to keep the passage ways open. Your engine will stay cleaner and last much longer. Some people have claimed they have gone 500,000 miles without a rebuild. Three hundred thousand mile claims are common. The most mileage increase heard, has been 40%. Twenty five percent is much more common. You will not believe the sludge and "gunk" that builds up in the jar. I broke an oil pump shaft in an engine with 185,000 miles on it, and when the oil pan was pulled, there wasn't any sludge or buildup. I installed the jar when the engine had about 72,000 miles on it. Additionally, the emission test readings are much lower. This is one project where you'll get a return on your money and efforts, very quickly. -------------------------------------------------------------------- If you have comments or other information relating to such topics as this paper covers, please upload to KeelyNet or send to the Vanguard Sciences address as listed on the first page. Thank you for your consideration, interest and support. Jerry W. Decker.........Ron Barker...........Chuck Henderson Vanguard Sciences/KeelyNet
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